Painting is not as easy as the Home Depot would have you believe.
It seems like every other home store commercial features a young couple completing an ambitious painting project. They fold their arms, regard their freshly painted room with pride, and nonchalantly toss their spotless tools into an equally spotless bucket. What will they do with the rest of their Saturday? Play with a puppy? These ads work because people are attracted to the instant gratification and the relative harmlessness of paint. (You can neither flood your house nor burn it down – usually).
Anyone who has attempted painting a room knows that it is not so easy. It does not go quickly. It is physically demanding and requires uncomfortable positions. You can damage your home – especially floors and moving parts like doors and windows. Furthermore, poor adhesion can essentially ruin a surface for future painting.
Nevertheless, you can successfully paint a room on the cheap. As The Cheapist, I refuse to pay someone to paint rooms for me. After several renovations, I can give you some painting tips to help you get professional results, but it will never be as easy as the home store would like you to believe.
Tips for painting a room on the cheap and getting great results.
Prepping the room for painting is key.
Do not even think about painting until you have carefully prepped the room. Knock off any loose paint. Cut off or smash down high spots on the walls or ceiling. Lightly sand (150 grit or higher) glossy or filthy surfaces. (Packs of sandpaper are cheaper online.) Fill any voids and/or skim over problem areas with joint compound, and then sand the repairs (220 grit). Clean the area and surfaces to remove most of the dust and debris.
Be safe! Remember that disturbing old surfaces can release harmful particles. Keep yourself and your family safe.
Plan for one coat of primer and two coats of paint.
The home store is overrun with more expensive “paint and primer in one” options that supposedly cover in one coat. Avoid these products. You have to go way to the back of the aisle (by design) to find the less expensive paint used by people who know how to paint properly.
Primer is more like glue than paint. It sticks to glossy, dirty surfaces so that paint can stick to it, but it covers poorly. It can start covering up the color and stains you are painting over, so pick a white primer for lighter colors or a dark-tinted primer for rich colors.
Even if you have a “one coat” paint, do two coats. You will never have a perfect first coat; the second coat will help. Two light coats will always look better than one thick coat. Why not a third coat of paint? Three coats of paint starts to magnify problems with build-up, errant bristles, debris landing in the finish, etc…
Paint the room in the proper order: ceiling, trim, and then walls.
This is key to making your painting easier. Whenever possible paint the ceiling first, then the trim, and then the walls. This way you can be messy with the ceiling paint (overlapping a bit to the adjacent surface instead of carefully cutting in) and a bit messy with the trim paint. Do the walls last and carefully cut in around the ceiling and trim. If you are carefully cutting in on all three phases, your life will be miserable.
Use the proper paint finish types: flat, semi-gloss, and eggshell.
There are different finishes for reasons beyond aesthetics.
Ceiling paint is extra flat (no shine) to hide imperfections on such a large visible plane. Ceiling paint is very cheap, so I recommend it. Flat paint offers good adhesion for touch-ups down the road. It may be “on trend” to paint ceilings in bold or shiny paints, but I don’t recommend it. The cool, almost gray hue of flat ceiling paint hides imperfections from the dry-walling or plastering. Furthermore, if you slop ceiling paint on to the walls, you will have not trouble painting over it with the wall paint.
Semi-gloss paint makes the trim “pop,” holds up to abuse (I’m looking at you, Roomba), and can be cleaned easily. The tops of baseboards, casings, etc. always collect grime, so you want something that can take some scrubbing. You could use an extremely durable gloss or high-gloss paint on the trim, but the higher the sheen, the more it will show imperfections. For best results, apply trim paint by using a brush and following the direction of the wood grain. Watch out for doors and windows because excessive paint build-up can bind movement. You may need to remove a moving part (like a door) for sanding or even planing on the edges before painting if the moving part is threatening to bind.
PRO TIP: You can give the appearance that any surface is painted wood. For example, take a look a the reveal around my windows. It is drywall underneath, but I used semi-gloss trim paint and a bristle brush to give the appearance that the windows are surrounded by wood. This technique works well in making MDF trim, faux-wainscoting, etc. look like painted wood.
Eggshell finish is perfect for walls that do not suffer under excessive abuse or moisture. Eggshell is toward the middle of the luster spectrum, but it is a bit more forgiving than a satin finish. Eggshell paint looks sharp when applied with a roller.
Blue tape is for chumps.
There are very few instances where using painters’ tape will give you better results. Spraying paint or creating complicated patterns are the exceptions. Most of the time, the paint will sneak behind the tape anyway. Learn how to cut-in in properly and stop wasting time and money messing with blue tape.
PRO TIP: If you are painting around windows, slopping a bit on the glass won’t matter. (This does not apply to Plexiglas). It easy to scrape it off later with a razor blade. Clamp a fresh razor blade into a pair of vise-grips and you have a comfortable, effective tool for removing paint from glass.
Make yourself comfortable when painting.
I hate painting because it is often uncomfortable. I always end up crawling around on the floor with aching wrists or trying to squeeze my fat behind into awkward corners. Under these conditions it is tempting to do a crumby job just to get it over with. Make sure you have a good platform to stand on, comfortable shoes, a comfortable vessel for loading your paintbrush, and maybe even a set of knee pads. I found the the painting cup shown below at the dollar store and it was worth every penny.
PRO TIP: If you don’t need knee pads very often, fold up some washcloths and duct tape them over your jeans. I find this to be more comfortable than real knee pads. If you do this with shorts on you will achieve a smooth finish (on your legs).
Learn to cut in like a pro.
“Cutting in” is using a detail brush to paint around the edges that you know you will not get with the roller. Cut in first so that you are rolling over the majority of your brush marks. Buy a small (1.5 – 2.5 inch), angled brush that you can push, slide, and cajole into corners. Don’t be cheap on this brush. (I can’t believe I just wrote that.) Be patient when cutting-in. Don’t apply paint directly into the corner; you will go past the corner or put in too much paint. Lay the paint on close to the corner (but not in the corner) and massage it in as you “lay off” with second pass. “Swoop” the tips of the bristles into the corner where you want it to be and move it slowly down the line as you slide the paint (that you left on with the previous stroke) to the edge.
Use the tip of the brush to finesse the paint into corners. Try different angles and don’t worry if you don’t get it all the way in to the corner on the first coat. It is easier to be patient than to clean up a mishap in a corner.
Now you are rolling.
Clean the lint off a new roller so that particles do not end up in the finish. Rub your hands from the center of the roller to the ends and remove the fibers that collect.
Use a kitchen-size garbage bag to cover your tray so you won’t have to clean up every time. It is a bit wasteful, but it reduces effort and reduces the amount of paint going down the drain. Cover the tray, tie a knot in the bag, and rip a hole in the underside so the bag will lay flat. The wrinkles from the bag will not matter. When your painting session is finished, collect the excess paint, remove the bag carefully, and drop the bag in the garbage.
Getting great results with a paint roller
A poor job with a roller results in poor coverage or nasty little ridges from the ends of the roller. Use proper technique to avoid these issues.
Using a paint roller requires the same method as cutting in; lay on the paint and then go back to spread it out evenly. Don’t roll near the edge of your selected area with your initial application, it will be harder to even out. A roughly 4′ x 4′ area is appropriate for the amount of paint held by most rollers. Always move the roller in the direction of the roller’s metal bar. The lighter pressure on the opposite side is less likely to leave paint ridges.Lay on to the selected zone.
PRO TIP: Use a longer handle to make your job easier, but don’t buy one. Most mop handles, broom handles, etc. are threaded the same way.
Amazon link: paint rolling kit (These things always seem to be cheaper in a bundle.)
Bucket of water
Keep a five gallon bucket of water nearby. The larger it is the longer you can go before refreshing it. Keep a large sponge and a small sponge in the bucket so that you can wipe off mistakes immediately with slow, heavy pressure. Only wipe with a clean part of the sponge. Dunk brushes, rollers, cups, etc. immediately so that they won’t dry before you can clean them thoroughly.
Take care of your painting tools or pay more later.
I don’t clean and save rolls; I have tried, but I can never get them clean enough to re-use. I store the one I am using in a bag when between coats. Dunk brushes after cutting in and go straight to rolling so that you can have a “wet edge” and minimize brush marks. Clean the brushes later with hot water (quality brushes are not cheap). When you wash brushes, squeeze and massage the bristles, but don’t damage them by bending them too much or scraping them. Allow brushes to drip dry in their appropriate shape.
PRO TIP: Remember that primer is like glue. It will adhere faster and stronger to your tools.
Admire your excellent job in painting a room on the cheap.
That’s it! Painting is not fun, but you can get results that will please you. It won’t be perfect, but professional results are never perfect either. Only you will see the imperfections. I wish you the best in painting your room on the cheap.